Bhutan
March 14-24, 2026
Visiting Bhutan was a unique and special adventure.
Beginning with the lodges, Six Senses exceeded all our expectations.
Each of the five lodges had a distinct design yet retained essential features making it feel like coming home. The furnishings were similar with touches to recognize their location (eg., cranes on the carpet in Gangtey given this is the home of the cranes). And each had a special name to further compliment the location.
The interiors were warm, wood, mostly pine, with emphasis on the views. No art adorned the walls, but the wood was often laid out in unique patterns giving the rooms a stylish, but understated elegance.
Each time we arrived at a new lodge we were greeted by senior staff, a local musical instrument was played, and warm hand towels and drinks were promptly delivered. Then each location gave us a different colored silk scarf, each one representing one of the five different elements.
This warm greeting was repeated each time we returned from an excursion. If it was a particularly arduous journey they would provide a short complimentary neck or foot massage.
The food was unique in each location, mostly from locally sourced organic farms (sometimes including their own). That said, most meat and fish came from outside of Bhutan as they live Buddhism and are reluctant to kill even for food. There are Yaks in Bhutan, which they use to make some of their foods (cheese, milk) and we did eat some Yak meat on a couple of occasions (it tastes pretty much like beef). Most everything was homemade including the butter, ketchup and the like. On sitting down at each meal, even breakfast, a treat was provided. Breakfast would be a naughty pastry, while lunch and dinner were different types of hummus and unique breads. We were always offered a shot of an organic drink which was designed to improve some part of our body and/ or soul. Both western and local food were always available, the head chef often visited our table, and they were happy to adjust or make something special.
Early on I wanted a simple cookie for a dessert and in each subsequent lodge they prepared chocolate chip cookies especially for me. Once I asked for ice after which then came at each meal and in each lodge a bucket of ice. We decided early on we would detox while in Buddhist Bhutan and subsequently they didn’t even tempt us by offering the wine list in any of the lodges.
This transfer of our preferences is one of several reasons we are so glad we stayed in only Six Senses lodges, rather than moving between multiple brands, as we traversed the country. In addition, when our flight from Bunthang back to Paro looked like it was cancelled we remained confident that they would accommodate us at the current lodge or another of their lodges should our plans to move-on not materialize. This takes a lot of pressure off. (Fortunately, our cancelled flight was replaced by another that departed four hours later than our original flight, but we only knew this almost immediately before departure so were very unsure of our situation for an extended period).
The rooms were lovely and spacious. Actually the upgraded one-bedroom suite in Paro was so large we couldn’t hear each other across the space. All had lovely views (Six Senses selected locations higher in the hills than Amman, Como, etc., which provided more expansive views over the valleys then their competitors). and terraces (though the weather was a bit cool to use them). The room was always filled with fresh snacks and many bottles of water.
Each night they would light a fire in our Bukhari wood burning stove which sometimes put off so much heat we had to open the door to balance the temperature with cooler air. Plus each night we crawled into bed where we would find the bed very cushty (our word) due to the two hot water bottles in bed. And on the first night at each lodge at turn down they gifted us beautifully painted wooden masks that we will treasure and most definitely be hung when we return to Barcelona. (One side of the bed received the mask, the other a zen message, which twice said we should wash our face before bed. Was this a hint?)
Each time we left the room, even for excursions, they refreshed the room. And if we didn’t fold or hang our clothes properly, we would find them nicely folded upon our return. Laundry is complementary and was always returned quickly and beautifully folded.
They also provided snacks in the car, healthy nuts, ginger for the rough roads, and usually some less healthy cookies (though they said they tried to use natural sweeteners but not sugar). And our Six Senses water bottle was always full in the car.
They provided hot and cold running service, and we barely were allowed to open our own door. If you sneezed a tissue box was run quickly to your table. David said he preferred a male massage therapist, so they shipped Sonam from the Paro lodge to both Punanka and Gantey by taxi, after that gesture we obviously needed to have several sessions--- and he gave excellent massages.
When we left each lodge they always escorted us to the car and provided us with a departing gift.
A couple of lodges have a capacity for 50 or so, while others had only eight lodge rooms and a couple of villas. So even at peak times it would never be crowded, and at the beginning of Spring it was only partially full. That said, we would repeatedly bump into the same people across the lodges as there is a pattern to the itinerary. The hotel chooses to keep the experience personal—there are no defined mixers or introductions. However, on the last night, with seven us leaving the following day, they invited a monk to visit the lodge and perform a blessing for balance in our lives and safe travels. A wonderful final touch.
Our guide, Tandin, is a full-time employee of Six Senses, while our driver, Setschu, was contracted specifically for our journey (interestingly he also owns the vehicle and is responsible for its maintenance).
Tandin was great. He proudly shared information about his beloved country but never went into so much detail that we became lost or bored. He couldn’t do enough for us. He wouldn’t let us open a door, carry our own water or coats on hikes, and was always concerned we were sufficiently fed, watered and provided clean toilets at regular intervals. He was knowledgeable about the history and culture of Bhutan. He always provided a wifi dongle so almost everywhere we had access to mobile service. He absolutely enhanced our experience in Bhutan.
And he spoke colloquial English so we often laughed together at the same jokes and experiences. We were so impressed with the quality of English throughout the country. Many signs were only posted in English and most everyone spoke almost native English. Tandin explained how they studied Shakespeare in school. I am not sure Americans receive such a high level of education. The sixteen-year-old boy that assisted my pony up to Tiger’s Nest and I chatted easily all the way up. He made several queries about the world and promptly also shared his thoughts and insights. We were looking out at the mountains, and he extolled on how beautiful they were, particularly in the morning when there was fresh snow. He also proudly explained about the country being carbon negative. I am not sure if many American children would understand the significance of the term (the country’s law is to keep at least 70% of the land covered by forests, they produce & sell hydropower, and this leads the country into being carbon negative-- impressive!)
Everywhere we visited was electrified and almost everywhere, even high in the mountains, we had had mobile services. I found it amusing to see people hiking in the serene mountains on their own but chatting on their phones (it was particularly ironic to me to see Monks dressed in their traditional robes while scrolling through Instagram or other apps).
The roads, however, varied. Tandin explained how they have improved dramatically over the last few years but there is no doubt there is more room for improvement. That said cows and horses are allowed to roam freely (supposedly they know when it’s time to head home at the end of the day and David even saw a cow literally climbing over the fence to get into its pen). This meant often slowing down until they deemed it appropriate to move and let us pass by (I joked that they didn’t need lawn mowers in Bhutan since we would see animals grazing freely everywhere—even on the lawns of government buildings).
Each of the five valleys were beautiful. That said, we hesitate to say that visiting Bumthang is a must-do experience. To traverse between Gantey and Bumthang involves a six plus hour drive with much winding through the mountains, over mountain passes, 90 degree turns, with the roads not always being “smooth”. Often part of the roads had been washed out, and there were plenty of potholes even on the paved roads. We enjoyed being in Bumthang (see the daily write up) but it was also probably our least favorite lodge of the five. The other factor is that the typical itinerary usually involves flying back to Paro (to avoid an 8+ hour uncomfortable drive) but often the flights are cancelled in Bumthang due to bad weather. This can really put a dent into enjoying your time in the country. Hence, our thoughts are to give this a miss.
Also, in Gantey one of the highlights are the very rare Black-Neck cranes. They migrate from Tibet in the Winter and return in the Spring (approximately October to March). Unfortunately we missed them by a week or so.
We spent 10 wonderful nights in Bhutan (11 days). To really understand and feel the energy of the country we would say you must spend a minimum of 6 days traveling within its borders. That said, eight to ten days over 3 to 4 valleys is the sweet spot in our opinion.
Which brings me to what is considered the highlight of Bhutan-- Tiger’s Nest. Generally this is done at the end of the trip as reaching the Nest involves a very high altitude. The thought stated is to visit at the end of the trip to allow travelers to acclimatize at lower altitudes during their first days in Bhutan before attempting the arduous climb. Our problem was that if we had missed the flight from Bumthang (which we would have done if we were flying the day before we did) we might have run out of time and not have been able to visit the Nest before our flight back to Bangkok. Our thought would be to schedule to visit the Nest early to ensure that travelers can find a day with good weather and not miss this important site for any reason.
While in theory, prior to our trip, we understood the extreme altitudes in Bhutan we were none-the-less surprised at how difficult it was to breathe in many parts, especially when hiking up-hill. Nor did we comprehend the number and difficulty of the uphill hikes to visit many of the must-see temples, which are often built at very inaccessible locations. The paths were often narrow, over rocks, stones, roots and numerous other impediments. In summary I would suggest that Bhutan is best visited by younger, fitter persons. We were fine, but people with mobility problems likely should not consider a visit.
Culturally we observed that the Bhutanese live a unique Bhutanese and Buddhist life (side note- we were told it’s a Matriarchal society—women represent the wisdom and men the strength).
Unlike other cultures we have visited everyone wears traditional clothing. Some of this is mandated and there are official rules about what attire can be worn to a government building (for example, our guide was wearing hiking shoes at one building and was told to take them off to enter. He walked through the cold floors barefooted and even the monks teased him about going back to the old ways (historically people had to be barefooted when meeting the King). Within the Dzongs (note Dzongs are half devoted to government management, and half to religious activities) no hats or sunglasses are allowed, and of course no shoes are allowed in the temples and photographs inside the temples are also forbidden.
People revere, and love, the King and are extremely proud of his accomplishments. Most optionally wear a pin with a photo of the king over their heart every day.
They take the religion very seriously-- it appears everyone we met and observed did so. Both our guide and driver prayed each time we entered a temple and turned the prayer wheel as we walked by.
We are told every home has an entire room devoted to prayer. These are not nooks or small alters but large rooms. The religion permeates their lives.
As they pray they burn Bhutanese butter lamps (karmé). They are sacred, traditional lamps offering light to dispel darkness and symbolize wisdom, compassion, and knowledge. They traditionally burn clarified yak butter with a cotton wick. They represent the enlightenment of Buddha.
Along with these traditions there are no contemporarily designed buildings. While buildings are not cookie cutter each building follows standards. Most are colorfully painted, particularly around the eves.
In addition, most building’s main walls are painted white or yellow and most have symbols painted on them. These auspicious symbols are for protection and prosperity. These may be Dragons, Snow Lions and other recognizable symbols.
One of these symbols is the Phallus. We would see it painted on many homes and buildings. It symbolizes fertility and protection as it is used to scare away evil demons. This symbol has ancient roots and is most famously linked to Drukpa Kunley, the "Divine Madman," a 15th-century Buddhist master known for his unorthodox teachings and wild sense of humor. We saw all types. Large and small, extremely erect and some less so. Some with no hair, some with some hair and some very hairy buggers. Some were wrapped with a bow, and I even saw one with what looked like arms on the “hips”!
We visited the inside of a few elaborately painted buildings to find the inside simpler and some parts not painted at all. We take it that what appears on the exterior is more important.
We loved the colours in Bhutan. From the colorfully painted homes to the clothes. More so for me where the prayer flags placed everywhere. The theory is that as you go under or near them the prayers wash over you. And I loved the Prayer Wheels found in so many places. You push them right to left and go around three times, but in many places, they are naturally turned by wind and water. I found these particularly special and photographed many. Pushing the wheels is also a form of exercise and community for older people who can spend hours walking around temples and pushing the prayer wheels.
However, we wondered a bit about Monks and Nuns. Historically one member of the family had to become a Monk. They could often leave home as early as six or seven. This is a life calling, not a one-year experience like might be the case in Thailand. And these people must remain celibate their entire life. That is a tough call when you join the monastery as young as six years old.
The country is developing, is generally poor, and people do not have easy lives (education and health care are free). But the country employs the GNH (The Gross National Happiness Index). This is the idea that everything the government and businesses do should be sustainable and equitable and lead to the good of all people. While this may also have some negative implications per some people’s thinkings, it seems to be a generally positive philosophy.
We hope for a positive future for the country but can’t help but wonder that with access to social media will the population look for more independence in how they think and act, and crave the softer more materialistic life of the west?
The country sits between the two giants of China and India (Bhutan’s benefactor). We hope that neither ever tries to interfere with Bhutan as an independent country or influence its future in any way.
Visiting Bhutan was an experience unlike any other and we are very honored and privileged to have had the opportunity to explore this unique, unspoiled Himalayan country.
Special People:
We met many wonderful people in Bhutan, and because their English as so good we were able to have conversations with them
That educated and enthralled us.
· Tandin was a wonderful guide and we already miss his informative narration and his banter.
· The lodge managers, Minjur in Thiampu, Tshering in Punankha, Tashi in Gantey, and Sheera in Paro were outstanding at their jobs and truly made us feel like we were ‘at home’
· The waiters were all excellent, but a special mention to Sherab in Gangtey, Kinley in Bunthang, Thinley and Karma in Paro. Their attention to detail, depth of thoughts about the ethos of six senses, and care stood out.
· Sonan who schlepped around the country to provide our shoulders with much needed massage therapy from the journeys.
· It’s the people here that we will always remember with great fondness who brought our Bhutanese adventure to life. They are truly special.
Additional Details about Bhutan:
Language:
Adding "la" to the end of sentences is a sign of respect, similar to "sir" or "ma'am".
In Bhutan, the prefix "Ap" (often spelled Aap or Apa) is added in front of names as a respectful honorific for older men, respected elders, or sometimes to signify a father figure. It is a fundamental part of the Dzongkha language's kinship and honorific system, similar to how "Acho" (elder brother) or "Aum" (Mrs./respected woman) are used.
The alphabet (script) used in unique to Thibet and Bhutan only.
Income:
· Average Annual Household Income: > Nu 400,000 (approx. USD 4,800–5,000).
· Urban vs. Rural: Urban households average ~Nu 600,000, while rural households average ~Nu 275,000 annually.
· Median Household Income: Nu 120,000/year.
· Average Monthly Salary: Approximately Nu 18,000 ($200–$225).
· High-Income Areas: Thimphu, Gasa, Paro, and Punakha recorded the highest average household incomes, while Zhemgang and Samtse had the lowest.
· Monthly Household Expenditure: The mean monthly household non-food consumption expenditure is Nu 32,396
GNH:
GNH is distinguishable from Gross Domestic Product by attempting to be a more direct measure of collective happiness through emphasizing harmony with nature and select cultural values, as expressed in the 9 domains of happiness and 4 pillars of GNH. According to the Bhutanese government, the four pillars of GNH are:
1. sustainable and equitable socio-economic development;
2. environmental conservation;
3. preservation and promotion of culture; and
4. good governance.
The nine domains of GNH are:
1. psychological well-being
2. health
3. time use
4. education
5. cultural diversity and resilience
6. good governance
7. community vitality
8. ecological diversity and resilience
9. living standards
Each domain is composed of subjective (survey-based) and objective indicators. The domains weigh equally but the indicators within each domain differ by weight.
Airport:
The hardest airports to land at in the world, such as Paro (Bhutan), Lukla (Nepal), and Courchevel (France), demand extreme precision due to high altitude, mountainous terrain, short runways, and rapidly changing weather. Paro Airport requires a manual, high-banked turn into a valley.
Eating:
Traditional Bhutanese sit on the floor cross legged. They are served and used their hands to eat the food. They do not use chopsticks like other Asian cultures. They drink Bhutanese butter tea, which is a traditional, savory Himalayan beverage made by churning strong black tea with butter (traditionally yak butter) and salt. It is a high-energy drink used to combat cold weather, often served with puffed rice, and represents hospitality.
Marriage:
Multiple wives are allowed in Bhutan (isn’t one enough????). Most marriages are for love but wealthier families often still involve arranged marriages to enhance alliances.
The current King has one wife that he has known since childhood. They currently have three children.
His Father, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, married four sisters in a Dechog Lhakhang in Punakha Dzong in 1979. The four queens, Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, Tshering Pem Wangchuck, Tshering Yangdon Wangchuck and Sangay Choden Wangchuck are daughters of Dasho Yab Ugyen Dorji, the descendant of both the mind and speech incarnations of Ngawang Namgyal, and Yum Thuiji Zam.