Mendoza is a desert and the general feeling is much poorer with small crude, but neat homes lined next to businesses. There is much more security here with all the homes behind bars and electric fences, and at every finca we visited we had to be announced with the guard checking that we had a reservation before we could proceed on to the grounds.
We were staying on the grounds of Durigutti Family Winemakers https://durigutti.com/visitas/casa-de-huespedes/ where they have 2 homes next to each other. We stayed in Casa Victoria which had 2 bedrooms and 2 baths, kitchen living room etc. We had a beautiful large terrace overlooking the lush vineyards where we could watch sunsets and ultimately one sunrise. Here we saw several green parakeets each day flying around and we heard several tweeting birds including one that drove David crazy because had put words to the ongoing tweeting (“You are a cutie”) and couldn’t get the thoughts out of his head.
Three of the four nights we had a small dinner that the vineyard provided for us in our casa, usually empanadas and salads. This was great as each of our days was full of food and wine.
On the first day we went to Septima Winery (the 7th of the family, hence the name). https://www.bodegaseptima.com/en/about-us/
Raventós Codorníu is one of the families with the most longstanding winemaking tradition in Spain. Working in the winegrowing business since 1551, its members have been making wines and cellars that are enjoyed all over the world for over 465 years.
With more than 4 centuries of experience in Europe, Raventós Codorníu sought to expand to the great terroirs of the New World. This is how it settled in the Napa Valley region in 1991 and, after carefully assessing different areas, in 1999, the family chose Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, in Mendoza, Argentina, for its unbeatable characteristics to make wines of international quality.
Nowadays, Codorníu Raventós has 14 centenarian wineries, mostly located in its winegrowing territories, including Bodega Séptima, in Mendoza, Argentina.
It’s a beautiful building in the middle of the vineyard, and all tourist activity takes place on the upper levels which affords great views over the vineyards and the Andes Mountains. The vineyard is at 1050 meters above sea level, and they have a strong focus on sustainability. We had a well-trained young guide, Urial, who took us out in the fields. Here in two rows not too distant from one another, they had dug pits so we could the content of the soil. Even in the short distance apart we saw the difference between the clay soil and a rockier soil which heats the vines more strongly. We learned they netted the vines as they receive little rain but do have hail about 11 times per year and the netting protects the grapes. We walked through the steel fermenting vat area as well as the barrel and bottling areas. He did a nice explanation though we have been to other tours where they provide much more granular detail.
Then we had a glass of white in the cellars, and then we self-pulled a glass of red wine directly from a cask. While it wasn’t yet “there” it was quite nice and it was fun to pull it from cask.
Then we went upstairs and had a multi-course meal with wine pairings. It was elegant and relaxed. Highly recommended.
Florencia greeted us, Uriel took us around and explained the wines.
Gran Reserve Malbec is top wine. 2mm a year. Part of Cordonieu.
Lunch
With Octopus
Cordineau Reserve Cava Catalunya. 18mos bottle, $45 2021 Rose. Flavourful, low yeast. Very nice. With Octopus
With Mushroom Croquette
Septima Obra Pinot 2024. 1100-1200m. Very nice but more like new world pinot.
Artesa Pinot Napa 2021 Los Carneros 300m. Compares to Pommard. We loved it. 4.1 voivino.
With Beef
Maefeso Gran Blens 2022, uses 100% natural yeast. 70 Malbec, 20 CS, 5 CF, 18mos oak + 12 bottle
With Beef
Prior Scala Dei Priorat 2016 Granache, CS, Syrah. 18mos Am oak.
Gran Malbec 2019 28-30 mos fr oak, +24 bottle
Desert
Anna de Cordineau cava, designed to serve on ice. Lovely with desert.
A nap and dinner at home ensued.
The next day we started with Pulenta Estate. https://www.pulentaestate.com/index.php This is family owned. The family arrived in 1902 from Italy and the 4th generation now runs the winery. They also import Porches to Argentina so there are a lot of Porche connections throughout the vineyard.
This is a very pleasant wine tour that was followed by a tasting with cheeses in the cellar. We loved the Cab Franc and found the wines more of the calibre and style of European wines. That said, they varied in prices from about 90 USD to 150 USD so were significantly more than at other wineries we visited.
1,000,000 bottles a year Septima. was two Speciality Cabernet Frank 135 hectares
Founded 2021 tanks of concrete steel and wood
2020 started experimenting with new grapes like Alberino temprenillo Nebbiolo yeah at the same time so it doesn’t how how long how long before those grapes are producing Wines that you’re selling 27 and 28 when we’ll see those Wines on the market
The planter brothers also are the poor Porsche into Argentina and Scheiss why linking between Porsche and Belinda including Private Life Wines for the launch of remodels
Storage sellers 7 m below ground so much cooler than the storage cellar we were in yesterday at September
Tasted
2021 Gran Cab Sav IX. Gran reserve, all grown at the winery Agreho. 1000m. Soft, round, fruity. Lovely. c.90USD
2021 Gran Malbec drier than CS. Not my fav.
2021 Cab Franc low tannic. Agregho. 8-10k borrle pa. LOVED. C. 90USD
2021 Gran Corte Blend M, CS, Mer, Pet V, Tiannat. Not our fav
Palma Carola red blend 2017. 50% M, 40% CS, 20% Merlot. 180 USD. Loved it
Then we went to Domaine Bosquet https://domainebousquet.com/en/ This is a large winery with a production of about 9 million bottles per year as opposed to the mid-size of those we visited so far. This was created by a French family so they follow both the French design of the architecture and wines. We have had a lot of these wines on Regent. The facilities are a bit rustic and it felt they didn’t prioritize tourism. Valentino gave us a short tour but as they are organic, we weren’t even allowed inside the winery itself. That said, we had a very nice lunch in the second story restaurant overlooking the vineyards.
Bousquet Winery: A Gem in Mendoza
Located in the picturesque Gualtallary Valley of Tupungato, Bousquet Winery is renowned for producing exceptional organic wines. The unique terroir and fertile soils of Mendoza provide the ideal environment for cultivating high-quality grapes.
The Bousquet family combines traditional French winemaking techniques with Argentina's rich viticultural heritage.
A Rich History Near the Chilean Border
The story of Bousquet Winery began in 1990 when Jean Bousquet, a Frenchman, fell in love with Argentina's stunning landscapes. He purchased land near the Chilean border and started growing grapes. Over the years, his daughter Anne and son-in-law Labid Al Ameri joined the family business, bringing fresh energy and vision.
A Commitment to Quality and Sustainability
In 2009, Anne and Labid took full control of the winery, implementing significant upgrades to the facilities, including new fermentation tanks and oak barrels. Today, Bousquet Winery is proud to be in its fourth generation, exporting a diverse range of wines—including red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert wines—to over 50 countries.
With a strong commitment to sustainability, the Bousquet family cultivates 240 hectares of organic vineyards. They grow a variety of grapes, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Torrontés, and Pinot Gris, alongside popular reds like Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, and Malbec. The winery also produces excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, all harvested by hand to ensure the highest quality.
Started in 1997 French family moved to Mendoza and created a Winery organic using French style. 500 hex at 1200m more tannin. 5mm bottles. 90% exported.
Shown around by Valentin0 (Valee on insta)
Chardonnay Reserva 50% oak 6 mos used twice,
2024 Gran Chardonnay 40% new oak, 40% used, 20% ceramic. 6 mos aged. 15usd
Ameri Cab Sav 12 mos new oak, +10-12 bottle. apx 25USd very nice
Ameri Syrah (same process) very nice
The third day was the highlight for me with a visit to Luigi Bosca. https://luigibosca.com/en/about-us/ We were prepared to be disappointed as David has been drinking this wine for 30 years and he wondered if the experience would not live up to his expectations. In the end it far exceeded our expectations.
In 1890 Leoncio Arizu, the first generation, one of the pioneers of European quality viticulture, arrived in Mendoza, Argentina. He settled in Luján de Cuyo. The family continues to own the company.
We went to their El Paradiso location. This was the seat of the family home and now they have turned this into a very high end, elegant, exclusive experience. They are much less concerned about us knowing all the details of growing the grapes and creating the wines than sharing their passion for creating memories. It’s an elegant estate with the family home, built in 1905, the centre of the activities.
Out front we began at 11 am with a glass of white wine. The breakfast of champions. They then gave us headphones, and we listened to 3 inspiring messages from the senior members of the family recollecting their memories of growing up here, helping the family grow the vines and the joy the wines brought to each occasion.
We made 3 stops in the vineyard where they had stations with various wines. One bottle we tried had been opened the day prior while the second had just been opened. I preferred the wine that had been breathing but others preferred the freshness and less complexity of the newly opened bottle. At the second station we also climbed a lookout and enjoyed photos over the vineyards. Unlike many wineries they have rows of olive trees between sections of vines. They say this is to protect the grapes from the winds. And on the third stop we enjoyed an olive oil tasting.
1.5 hours later we were back where we started and our group of 7 shrunk to 4 of us doing the full luncheon. It started outside with the passionate Chef Pablo Del Rio sharing his enthusiasm for food and life. We started with an empanada in Mendozan style, a corn soup with the meringue on top (outstanding), and as a special favour he baked some fresh corn in the outdoor wood burning oven. This was followed by baked Provolone cheese with a local tomato sauce, some delicious home-made pork sausage, home-made focaccia, and some beautiful beef grilled outside. And these were only the starters!
Ignacio and Dede (24 (from Cordoba, Argentina and 20 from New Jersey) joined us in the Green House for 4 more courses. We had a delightful conversation and great food and lots of wines. The Chef even brought David some caramel sauce on the dessert as it was his birthday. Then they brought him a birthday cake, which we shared, of course, plus 4 types of home-made ice cream. We needed to be rolled out, and adorable Dede clearly went past her normal drinking level as she began to drop ice cream and red wine over her pristine white dress, before elegantly falling out of her chair. Ignacio was a gentleman and the experience provided further fun to our wonderful day.
· LOCATION: Ruta 60, Maipú
· DISTRICT: El Paraíso
· ALTITUDE: 2,362 ft
· TOTAL AREA: 728 acres
9-10mm bottles. 900 hectares. Tour designed by ….luxury experience architect. Musical experience. Lovely audio as a master Wine makers now 85 riding on his horse to the estate during his childhood.L the road is olive tree line. Vines 15-100 years old, 85-100 years used for top PARAISO and LOS NOBLES wines. 250ml rain pa, watering by trench per DOC.
Tasted on the tour
1. Manu at the first stop, he also served at lunch. 2023 Cab franc de Sangre. Delicious. Apx 25usd. Reserve
2. Augustine at second stop. Les Nobles Malbec Vistabalda apx 55usd. 80-100 year vones. Very complex, loved it. 18mos fr oak balanced by 1, 2 and 3rd use barrels. Also walked up top of structure to look over vineyards.
3. Augustine and Vicky Wine and Olive Oil. 2024 Sangre Cab Sav (familys fav grape) Uco and Lujan valleys.
Original winemaker was Luigi Bosca. Now his son is the Wine maker is the fourth generation he says it’s the best Wine climate in the world even without the water and they water twice a week in between December and April.
We taste a cabaret franc which was really really very nice. €25 versus 90 yesterday.
Lunch
Apunta Semillon Fume 2024 (like Pouilly Fume) with chicken.
2023 De Sangre Corte blend with mushroom/rice.
2022 Paraiso with goat ragout pasta. Delicious apx 95eur.
Boheme sparking with desert. Apx 35eur.
Dinner at Brindilias. Lovely 8 course tasting menu with wines. And didnt die from too much food.
David felt greedy that day so he had also booked us a dinner at 1 Star Michelin restaurant- Brindillas. https://www.brindillas.com/
They gave us a choice of an 11 course or 8 course menu and we jumped at the 8 with the pairing. Fortunately everything was reasonably sized and I didn’t feel I needed to clear my plate. David smilingly received his second birthday cake which was delicious and we DID feel we needed to clean that plate. We were pleased the dinner took only 2 hours. It was lovely but we had so much food and wine that day that the bed looked really good as we fell into it tired and satisfied.
On our last day we stayed at our winery for lunch and a tour. Durigutti Family Winemakers is a smaller family business. https://durigutti.com/en/ I like the fact that the mother of the 2 owners actually was a farm worker, so the brothers have clearly worked hard to reach this level of success. They continue to build the business with the tourism aspect only begun a few years ago. They seem more switched on to the marketing and branding then many of the other wines. I enjoyed the energy the place exuded on growing and improving.
Our winery is located in the heart of Luján de Cuyo, precisely in the district of Las Compuertas. This is one of the regions with rich tradition and antiquity for the production of high-quality wines in Argentina. From here, the first Malbec of Argentina were made. This micro region is in the processes of reassessing the value of its prized centennial vines.
Our wines reflect the right balance between tradition and innovation – artisanal selection of grapes, manual pumping over, pisonage, native yeasts, temperature control, peculiar hot and cold macerations, hydraulic presses, steel tanks, concrete and terracotta containers – where they coexist ancient techniques with modern technologies.
We were staying on the property and took the morning off before walking over to lunch at 1 pm at their Michelin recognized restaurant. (Note it rained today with virtually no sun which is highly unusual in the valley). While it could use a little polishing, we had a wonderful meal and tasting. Post lunch we had a short tour of the vineyard and the fermenting tanks (Note in several wineries we saw cement tanks as well as clay pots). Our guide was sweet, but he spoke so quickly in English we wondered if he was on some drug or was in a hurry to leave. We again had a pleasant tasting.
We enjoyed Mendoza. Where irrigated its beautiful but elsewhere its dry with many bumpy stone roads and scrub. It has 3 main districts where they grow the grapes and there is a lot of scrub in between. Each district has a bit of a different character and elevation so the wines are unique to each. I asked why such a desert area was chosen and it was explained to me they have all the key elements of Terroir here all they lack is water. And water doesn’t affect the Terroir. So it is a labour of love for the farmers and the waters of the melting snow from the Andes is what sustains the irrigation to grow these grapes. We loved our experience and suspect the area will further develop their tourism with more proper hotels and similar infrastructure.