The team at the Six Senses wished us a successful onward journey and presented us with string bracelets based on our year of birth (one of us is Wood and one is Iron but we cańt confirm which is which).
Just as we began our two our drive through the mountain passes we stopped to look at
Simtokha Dzong ('dzong' means "castle-monastery") also known as Sangak Zabdhon Phodrang(Bhutanese language meaning: "Palace of the Profound Meaning of Secret Mantras") which is a small dzong. It was built in 1628 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, who unified Bhutan. It is the first of its kind built in Bhutan. Here we stopped to admire the view, and I captured a photo of a dog doing exactly the same.
An hour later, after winding and winding up through pine forests we reached the Dochu La ( Dochu Pass; lameans pass in Dzongkha). 108 memorial chortens or stupas, known as the "Druk Wangyal Chortens", were built at the pass by Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk, the eldest Queen Mother, in memory of Bhutanese soldiers who died in 2003. Apparently the number 108 is very auspicious.
We stopped and walked through the stupas. On clear days it is possible to see several of the named Himalayan mountains. However, while sunny on the way up and here at the pass, it was very cloudy in the direction of the mountains.
As we wound down the opposite side of the mountains it was more hazy as we passed through it´s forests.
When finally in the Punakha Valley we stopped and walked through a terraced rice fields. Here I captured a photo of a man drying his rice in front of his home. In some regions they can grow multiple crops per year but here they can only grow one which has yet to be planted. We did note red peppers drying in the sun along the road and saw some pepper plants just beginning to break the soil here.
Our objective was the Fertility Temple.
Chimi Lhakhang, also known as the Fertility Temple, was built in 1499 by Ngawang Choegyel, the 14th Drukpa hierarch. However, it was Drukpa Kunley (1455–1529), the maverick saint (also known as the ‘Divine Madman’) who first built a chorten at the site.
According to local myth, a vile demoness by the name of Loro Duem resided in the high pass of Dochu La and she used to terrorise all those who attempted to cross this pass. There were two other demonesses who lived in two smaller passes. As a result, the folks in the valley lived in constant fear and misery.
When Drukpa Kunley first stepped foot in Bhutan, he heard about these demonesses and the sufferings they have been causing. Thus, he made his way to Dochu La and upon his arrival, the three demonesses recognised him and his divine power. They tried escaping to the valley but two of the demonesses ‘dissolved’ into the body of Loro Duem.
Upon reaching the plains of Lobesa, Loro Duem morphed herself into a dog to disguise herself. However, Drukpa Kunley recognised Loro Duem and subdued her with his “Thunderbolt of Flaming Wisdom” which is said to be the phallus, thus, the symbol of Chimi Lhakhang. Drukpa Kunley then buried the demoness under the mould of a hill that resembles the breast of a woman. He then uttered the word ‘Chime’ which means ‘no dog’ and built a black chorten on top of the mould.
Prior to killing and burying the demoness, Drukpa Kunley made the demoness to pledge service to the Buddha and to become the protector of the dharma. She is now the local deity known as Chhoekim who is the guardian of Chimi Lhakhang.
Later in the 15th century, Drukpa Kuenley’s cousin Lam Ngawang Choegyal built a temple in honour of Drukpa Kunley and named it Chimi Lhakhang, literally translated as ‘No Dog Temple’.
The Lama is sometimes also referred to as ‘The Saint of 5,000 Women’ due to his truly pleasure-filled lifestyle full of women and wine. He propagates intercourse as a manner to attain enlightenment. That’s the origin of the monastery’s alleged fertility-inducing powers. It is said that all those who wish to conceive will receive fertility blessings at the monastery.
People from different parts of the world who longed to have children often visit Chimi Lhakhang to seek fertility blessings. The blessing process involves visitors getting hit on the head by the presiding Lama with the 10-inches ivory and wooden phallus followed by the bow and arrow used by Drukpa Kunley.
We touched the antique wooden 7 kg phallus but not wanting children, didńt follow this ritual. Apparently women who are having trouble conceiving come here, tie it on their back and walk around the building three times.
Inside there is a book with photos and letters of people who have come from around the world and have successfully had children. Did visiting the temple help? Well at least apparently it didńt hurt!
Throughout Bhutan, the phallus symbol can be seen flanking doorways, hanging off rooftops or painted on the corners of homes in all sizes and colours. Traditionally, Bhutanese believe that these phallic symbols help to ward off evil spirits and to drive malicious gossip away. It is also a symbolic reference of fertility and good luck.
Outside of the temple there are numerous shops selling the phallic symbol souvenirs in the form of keychains or wooden sculptures. I took some great photos of these funny chachkas (sp?).
We drove then for another 45 minutes until we reached the Pungthang Dewa Chhenbi Phodrang Dzong (meaning "the palace of great happiness or bliss"). It’s a beautiful fort surrounded by the river. We took some beautiful photos and will visit the complex tomorrow.
About twenty minutes later we climbed further into the hills to the ¨Flying Farmhouse ¨ as this Six Senses lodge is known.
We were greeted with the banging of the drum and this time with yellow scarfs.
Before lunch we received a short neck massage and then had lunch outside by the pool.
For fun, we tried the national sport, archery. They take the game very seriously here but we played around for a half hour and learned basic techniques. We surely wońt compete in their national competition any time soon. I was glad no one was hurt when I shot my arrows, and David successfully killed a flag pole next to the target! Well done David.