Rotorua is beautiful and so pristine. Everything is so clean and organised. It has fantastic sea views and many people visit to have a relaxing beach holiday here.


Rotorua is a city in the Bay of Plenty region of New Zealand's North Island. It is sited on the southern shores of Lake Rotorua, from which it takes its name. It has an estimated resident population of 58,800. The city and the lake are located within the Rotorua Caldera that was formed in a major volcanic eruption approximately 240,000 years ago. It still remains a source of geothermal activity and one may visit hot springs here.


The area was and still is home to many Maori. Our tour involved a visit to two Maori sites.


The first was to a Maori school- Te Wharekura O Mauro. https://www.mauao.school.nz/


​Te Wharekura o Mauao is a tikanga Māori education provider based in Tauranga, Aotearoa. They offer year seven to thirteen year old students academic, sporting and cultural potential while immersed in tikanga and Te Reo Māori.


Here the teenagers greeted us with the traditional Maori greeting, first ensuring we came in peace. To do this they danced out with spears and loud chanting to ensure we understood they are powerful and not to be messed with. They then placed an offering at the feet of our Chief (one of our group was charged as our Chief). Our Chief then picked up the offering which is a sign that we come in peace (if he had desecrated the offering would they have attacked?)


Once that was established we were invited inside into their Marae (meeting place, see more below). Women must walk in first but when seated the men sit in the front rows to protect the women & children.


Here they continued the greeting and then we had to sing a traditional song in reply. This was followed with them singing and dancing several traditional songs & dances.


After their singing the women of our group were brought up to participate in a dance with the female students. Then the men, including David and I, were brought up to do the Haka Dance. Haka is a traditional Māori performance art, often performed in groups, that involves chanting, rhythmic body movements, and facial expressions, representing a tribe's pride, strength, and unity. The Haka is commonly known as a war dance used to fire up warriors on the battlefield, but it's also a customary way to celebrate, entertain, welcome, and challenge visiting tribes. We have seen it before with the NZ Rugby Team performing it at the Rugby Sevens in HK. It's loud and intimidating. I am not sure David and I were intimidating but it was a unique and special experience.


Interestingly the Maori wag their hands continuously while dancing as they believe that movement is the sign of life.


They taught us to use the phrase "Kia Ora" which translates literally as "have life" or "be healthy", wishing the essence of life upon someone, from one speaker to the other. It is used as an informal greeting or farewell equivalent to "hi", "hello", or "goodbye" and can be used as an expression of thanks similar to "cheers".


At the end of their presentation they quoted a well-known Māori proverb emphasizing the importance of people. It is "He aha te mea nui o te ao? He tangata, he tangata, he tangata," which translates to "What is the most important thing in the world? It is people, it is people, it is people." 


The kids looked like they were having a blast and we were very moved by our time with them.


Then we visited Hangarau Marae. https://maorimaps.com/mi/marae/hangarau-peterehema


Hangarau Marae (also known as Peterehema) is located in Bethlehem, outside of Tauranga. The primary hapū for this marae is Ngāti Hangarau of Ngāti Ranginui.


The whare tipuna is also named Hangarau. The marae connects ancestrally to the waka Takitimu, the awa Wairoa, Mangapapa, Omanawa, and the moana Te Awanui.


Here we had a similar but much smaller and more low key presentation but with the elder of the Marae involved. In the main community centre they display photos of their elders with the original founder of the tribe at centre/ top of the wall. Their ancestors (and apparently the burial process) are very important to them. They explained that the shape of the roof is made to resemble welcoming arms. And they displayed their handmade tapestries along the walls.


Again, very moving and very special.


A couple of other fun facts. The coast has numerous Douglass Fir trees. Apparently they were planted by the missionaries near the shore so that sailers could see these tall trees from sea and know it was a safe place to come ashore.


This area grows a LOT Of kiwi fruit. We didn't know that Kiwifruit comes in various colors and species, including green (Actinidia deliciosa), golden (Actinidia chinensis), and red varieties, with the golden type being sweeter and less acidic than the green.  The original name for the fruit now known as kiwifruit was "Chinese gooseberry," which was later changed to "kiwifruit" in 1959 as a marketing strategy, referencing New Zealand's national bird, the Kiwi.  (Note, kiwi's called "kiwifruit" are from NZ. Without the "fruit" means that they are grown in other countries).


Marae and Welcome Ceremony-

A marae is a fenced-in complex of carved buildings and grounds that belongs to a particular iwi (tribe), hapū (sub-tribe) or whānau (family). Māori see their marae as their tūrangawaewae - their place to stand and belong. Marae are used for hui (meetings), āhuareka (celebrations), tangi (funerals), educational workshops and other important tribal events.


A marae incorporates a wharenui (carved meeting house), a marae ātea (an open space in front), a wharekai (a dining hall and cooking area), and a toilet and shower block.


A visitor who has never set foot on a marae is known as waewae tapu or sacred feet. They must partake in a formal welcoming ceremony, called a pōwhiri, to remove the tapu (sacredness) and become one people with those of the marae.


Traditionally, a pōwhiri begins at the waharoa (entrance to the marae), starting with an initial karanga usually conducted by the kaikaranga (women caller) who stands at the front. The manuhiri (visitors) are called on by a kaikaranga who begins the karanga, to which the manuhiri kaikaranga responds to. The manuhiri move up slowly behind the kaikaranga, until they reach the mahau (porch). The karanga will continue until the manuhiri reach the mahau of the marae. This removes the tapu (sacredness) from the manuhiri, who are referred to as waewae tapu (sacred feet) if they are first-time visitors to that particular marae. 


A challenge that attempts to determine the intent of the manuhiri (visitors), which, once established, clears the way for the rest of the welcome ceremony. They may carry a taiaha (spear-like weapon) and will lay down a token, often a small branch, for the visitors to pick up to show they come in peace.


The haukāinga (local people of a marae) will initiate the whaikōrero, followed by a waiata (song) that the tangata whenua sings in support of their speaker(s). The manuhiri (guests) then follow the same kawa (protocol).


After manuhiri have sung their waiata, a koha (gift/offering) is presented, being placed in front of the haukāinga. Symbolising thanks to the hosts for the manaakitanga (hospitality) extended to them. The process then moves back to the haukāinga who close the whaikōrero proceedings. 


Nearing the ending of the pōwhiri, the manuhiri move across to hongi the haukāinga. This involves the shaking of hands and a gentle pressing of noses, possibly also a kiss on the cheek, signifying the sacred breath of life – the mauri (life principle). Each marae has a different kawa on who is at the front of the line. 


https://www.newzealand.com/nz/feature/powhiri-maori-welcome/